{"id":1434,"date":"2008-10-28T12:00:24","date_gmt":"2008-10-28T16:00:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/batesthisweek.wordpress.com\/?p=1434"},"modified":"2024-07-08T13:42:11","modified_gmt":"2024-07-08T17:42:11","slug":"pollan-explores-paradox","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/2008\/10\/28\/pollan-explores-paradox\/","title":{"rendered":"Food writer Pollan explores &#8216;American paradox&#8217;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href='https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/files\/2008\/10\/pollan2484.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"355\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/files\/2008\/10\/pollan2484-355x300.jpg\" class=\"attachment-medium alignright\" alt=\"Michael Pollan, whose best-selling books scrutinizing the impacts of the &quot;food-industrial complex&quot; have fueled a nationwide fascination with Americans&#039; food choices, speaks at Bates College at 7:30 p.m. Monday, Oct. 27, in the College Chapel, College Street.\n\nTitled &quot;In Defense of Food: The Omnivore&#039;s Solution,&quot; Pollan&#039;s address is open to the public at no charge. A reception and book signing will follow. The annual Otis Lecture, the event is made possible by the Philip J. Otis Endowment at Bates.\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&#8220;The science around food,&#8221; said <em>Omnivore&#8217;s Dilemma<\/em> author Michael Pollan to a rapt Bates College audience on Oct. 27, &#8220;is basically where surgery was in 1650.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Then he asked, &#8220;Are you ready to get on the table?&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>The line drew one of many big laughs from the capacity crowd at the college chapel. Yet therein, too, lay a key theme of Pollan&#8217;s talk: In what he calls the &#8220;American paradox,&#8221; the U.S. obsession with nutrition has actually given this nation &#8220;some of the lousiest nutritional health in the world.&#8221;<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>&#8220;The ideology that we bring to food and eating decisions really is the problem,&#8221; he said. He calls this ideology &#8220;nutritionism,&#8221; and says its disciples have put their faith in imperfect, even destructive, science and food-industry marketing.<\/p>\n<p>The annual Otis Lecture at Bates, Pollan&#8217;s droll, fact-rich talk was titled <em>In Defense of Food: The Omnivore&#8217;s Solution<\/em>. (Because scores of would-be listeners were turned away from the crowded chapel for the evening talk, he reprised the address the following morning.)<\/p>\n<p>His appearance was timely, coinciding with the College&#8217;s yearlong <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/food.xml\">Bates Contemplates Food<\/a><\/em> initiative, examining where food comes from and what it means. During Pollan&#8217;s two-day stay at Bates, an institution whose <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/x181850.xml\">dining practices<\/a> he praised as &#8220;light years ahead of many other places,&#8221; the award-winning <a href=\"http:\/\/home.bates.edu\/views\/2008\/09\/19\/omnivores-dilemma\/\">writer and journalism professor <\/a>visited around the campus community and offered an informal talk about writing on Monday afternoon.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/x187085.xml\"><em>Read an edited transcript of Pollan&#8217;s speech<\/em><\/a><\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Pollan summarized concepts from his best-selling <em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.michaelpollan.com\/omnivore.php\">Omnivore&#8217;s Dilemma<\/a><\/em> (2006) and this year&#8217;s <em><a href=\"http:\/\/www.michaelpollan.com\/indefense.php\">In Defense of Food.<\/a><\/em> Ultimately, he asked his listeners to shun nutritionism and the Western diet of refined stodge and feedlot meat; seek out food from sources as natural as possible; and remember that &#8220;if everybody sought out real food, whole food, cooked it themselves, and ate it with friends and family, [so] much would change in this country.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Nutritionism sees food as a &#8220;delivery system for nutrients&#8221; and eating as an activity relating solely to health. It borders on religion, complete with a priesthood \u2014 nutritional scientists, food-industry marketeers and their willing acolytes in the press \u2014 and a Manichean worldview of good vs. evil food components.<\/p>\n<p>A highlight of the talk was a history of nutritionism, which Pollan linked to late-19th-century grainy gurus like John Henry Kellogg and Charles William Post. And resonating with listeners of a certain age, many of whom still wonder where &#8220;draft beer in a bottle&#8221; came from, was Pollan&#8217;s reminder that today&#8217;s nutritionism is rooted in the 1970s.<\/p>\n<p>In 1973, under food industry pressure, Congress repealed a regulation that compelled manufacturers to label certain imitation foods as &#8220;imitation.&#8221; That opened the door to all sorts of substituted ingredients and such curious products as fat-free sour cream.<\/p>\n<p>Four years later, Sen. George McGovern presented the Senate&#8217;s well-intended &#8220;Dietary Goals for the U.S.,&#8221; calling for fewer saturated fats, refined grains and sugars. McGovern&#8217;s report, Pollan explained, put the government for the first time in the role of trying to influence the eating habits of all Americans on the grounds of health.<\/p>\n<p>But in a fascinating sort of ju-jitsu, the food industry took what was in fact a critique of its methods and parlayed it into a &#8220;brilliant new marketing strategy&#8221;: using the government guidelines, and later the auguries of nutritional science, to build a whole new profit center around nutritionally engineered products like Nabisco&#8217;s Snackwells line of diet confections.<\/p>\n<p>The industry found some &#8220;magic words: If you put &#8216;low-fat&#8217; on a food, people will eat a ton of it,&#8221; Pollan said, to laughter. &#8220;The obesity epidemic and the public health campaign to get fat out of the diet coincide.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;What a public health disaster.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>In short, Pollan said, the &#8220;science behind nutritionism has just been completely wrong.&#8221; Both the chemical composition of foods and the absorptive powers of the living body are too subtle and complex for current science: &#8220;You have a mystery on both ends of the food chain that has thwarted any attempts to really reduce it.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Where science has gone astray, cultural tradition and family wisdom over the millennia successfully conveyed information people needed to survive on the foods naturally available to them \u2014 a surprisingly wide spectrum of foods. Traditional diets are incredibly diverse, Pollan said. &#8220;There is no ideal human diet. One of our great good fortunes is that we can do well on whatever nature has to offer on six of the seven continents.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>So &#8220;there is no one proper way to eat,&#8221; he said. But &#8220;there is one way not to eat&#8221; \u2014 the Western diet. &#8220;How could civilization, 10,000 years after the birth of agriculture, have come up with the one way that reliably makes people sick?&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Prior to the question-and-answer session that ended the evening, Pollan reminded listeners of the unbreakable relationship among healthy people, healthy communities and healthy agriculture. &#8220;It turns out that what is best for our health is best for the health of our agriculture too. It really is a win-win, because what our agriculture really needs is to diversify&#8221; away from its dependence on monoculture and chemical inputs \u2014 &#8220;and what we need to do as eaters is to diversify, to eat many different real foods.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>He also offered a few of his <a href=\"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/x185479.xml\">rules for eating<\/a>, including the seven-word phrase that has become a mantra among Pollanites: &#8220;Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Suggesting that we avoid &#8220;any food that won&#8217;t eventually rot,&#8221; he described a package of Twinkies that has sat in his office apparently unchanged for two years. &#8220;The microbes . . . are not interested,&#8221; he said, to laughter. &#8220;The microbes leave them alone. And we should, too.&#8221;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The annual Otis Lecture  at Bates, Pollan&#8217;s droll, fact-rich talk was titled In Defense of Food: &#8220;The Omnivore&#8217;s Solution.&#8221;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":148,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_hide_ai_chatbot":false,"_ai_chatbot_style":"","associated_faculty":[],"_Page_Specific_Css":"","_bates_restrict_mod":false,"_table_of_contents_display":false,"_table_of_contents_location":"","_table_of_contents_disableSticky":false,"_is_featured":false,"footnotes":"","_bates_seo_meta_description":"","_bates_seo_block_robots":false,"_bates_seo_sharing_image_id":0,"_bates_seo_sharing_image_twitter_id":0,"_bates_seo_share_title":"","_bates_seo_canonical_overwrite":"","_bates_seo_twitter_template":""},"categories":[4,232,217,224],"tags":[10855,5928,6954,6961],"class_list":["post-1434","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-academic-life","category-environment-sustainability","category-science-technology","category-society-culture","tag-bates-contemplates-food","tag-michael-pollan","tag-philip-j-otis-endowment","tag-philip-j-otis-lecture"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1434","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/148"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1434"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1434\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":139674,"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1434\/revisions\/139674"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1434"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1434"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bates.edu\/news\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1434"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}