Camden State Park has an incredible variety of climbing grades and types. The drive is an hour an a half from Bates to a dirt parking lot that usually isn’t full. The Lost Valley crag at Camden offers 16 sport climbs that range from 5.7 to 5.12d. The approach can be a little tricky and long, but most of the time you’ll have the crag all to yourself. The views from the top of the cliff are spectacular and the wall gets plenty of sunshine.

If you’re looking for trad climbing, the Guide’s Wall has plenty of short climbs that range in grade from 5.4 to 5.9+. This cliff is southeast facing and has a mostly flat mile long approach :).

There is also plentiful ice climbing at Camden State Park!

Trailhead Location:

Maiden Cliff Trailhead, 321-415 Turnpike Dr, Camden, ME 04843

44°14’50.3″N 69°05’15.0″W